Palos (Nisiros) - Dodecanese

An extinct volcanic crater. The island itself is almost square . The soil is very rich therefor the island is rich in vegetation. Take a walk up to the crater which spans 2 ½ miles across. The view is spectacular.

Many visitors to Nisiros equate the island solely with its volcano. Day-trippers from Kos disembark onto waiting buses and are spirited away into the interior, where they climb down into the crater, take snapshots, and are bussed back to the port for lunch before getting back onto their boats. They don't know what they're missing, for the island has much more to offer. They may have time to look briefly around Mandraki, the island's main port, but not to fully soak in the charms of its narrow, pretty streets and squares. Nor do they get to swim on volcanic beaches through natural hot springs, or enjoy sunset from the island's 2,000-year-old ruined castle. All these things are missed by day-trippers; though they await visitors to this lush, fertile island who have a little more time on their hands. The legend of Nisiros' founding is that Poseidon ripped off a chunk of Kos and flung it at the Titan Polyvotis, pinning him to the sea floor under what is now Nisiros; the volcano is Polyvotis expressing his frustration with his enforced captivity. Nisiros is one of only three dormant volcanoes in the Greek Islands, along with M1os and Santorin; but it's also had other claims to fame. The Phoenicians called it Porphyros, since they found here large quantities of the murex shells which they used for the purple dye; Nisiros was allegedly the first place to produce porphyry. One version of the etymology of the island's name is that it links nissi, the Greek word for "island," and ross, Phoenician for "red."

Charming Mandraki, extending along the water, is the capital of this community of some 1,200. Well kept-up, it has adorned its squares with little fountains or black-and-white krokalia mosaics. Walking along the water, you come to one plaza after another, but you'll entirely miss the main square, Ilkiomeni, tucked away inland, where locals come out at night to sit at cafe tables.

Guarding all this, elevated on a small cliff at one end of town, is the 14th century castle which the Venetians built when they took over the island, mainly as protection against pirates. Around 1600, a monastery was created inside this castle, called Panagia to Spiliani after the little 15th-century church built into the cliff (spilia means "cave") at its heart. A steep flight of stone steps leads up the rock, giving onto panoramic views, a little stone chapel, and the Municipal Museum (which is to be moved to new, grander premises, funded by a wealthy Nisiran, at some future date). In the church a carved wooden iconostasis holds the miraculous Panagfa icon. August 15, the Virgin's feast day, is marked with a great local celebration. A footpath leads around the Spiliani point to the town beach, cradled within high cliffs. The water here is touted as the best on the island, even if the beach isn't the most comfortable in the world, comprised of chunks of the dark rock called Hohlaki, which is also the beach's name.

Places to moor

Mandraki – The main harbor of Nisiros there is mole and quay to tie onto. During high meltemi winds the harbor can become uncomfortable and even dangerous. Provisioning is available and several tavernas.

Palon - This harbor lies 2 miles E of Mandraki. There is a mole to tie on and it offers good shelter form the meltemi. Make sure to eat some fresh fish at one of the many tavernas. There is also a mini market for provisioning.