Leros - Dodecanese

An island of contrasts, rocky hills, arid regions and steep cliffs alternate with fertile valleys, mountain creeks and vineyards. The island's most beautiful bays are Goumas and Poito Lago, set so deep inland it seems to cut the island in two. The capital is built amphi-theatrically on a hillside and is crowned by a Franco-Byzantine fortress. Like Kalymnos, Leros is essentially the home of sponge fisherman.

Leros is something of a standout among the Dodecanese - in good senses and bad. For years, the name was synonymous to Greeks with the "funny farm," thanks to the large mental institution located here. Then, its strategic location and numerous natural harbors made it a logical base for the navies of occupying powers. In the years leading up to World War II, the Italians transformed and expanded the port of Lakki, a development which had its tragic culmination in the Battle of Leros in 1943. German bombardments raged around the 14th-century castle above PlAtanos, where the Allies had planted their anti-aircraft guns; and so it was that a 20th-century war did more damage than any conflict against which the castle had originally been built for protection.

However, Leros today bears little trace of either insanity or aggression, and more and more people are discovering an island that has been much overlooked.

Lakki is where the big ferries dock, and if you're arriving by boat it will give you as clear a sign of Leros' "difference" as you could wish. Lakki was the Italian harbor, and the Italians decided to turn it into the city of their future: after they arrived in 1923, they razed the existing houses and erected buildings which some see as a manifesto of futurist architecture and others as poor taste. These dilapidated white edifices with their curving walls - including a clock tower, customs house and elementary school, as well as the decrepit former Hotel Roma - are like film sets for a fascist director's movie version of the future.

Part of Leros' ongoing transformation involves plans to redo some of the buildings, reproduce the original terrazzo sidewalks, and generally spruce it up. The place still has a military air, moreover, emphasized by the theatrical Monument to the Fallen by the water, and the occasional battleship at the quay.

Hard by Lakki, in the direction of Lepida, are the mental institutions that have helped give the island its reputation. After a television crew came in a few years ago and did an expose on the institutions' dubious conditions, doctors came in from other parts of the EU to help the staff clean things up - with good results. As part of the "new openness," the grounds - with a summer home of Mussolini's - are now open to visitors. It's to the right of the road going south toward Xirokambos, one of the island's prettiest little fishing villages, on a bay, as well as the site of some of its oldest ruins. Over the town is Paleokastro, an old fortress, as well as the ruins of an old Acropolis, probably dating from the Myceanean period; both castle and town saw their heyday around the 4th century B.C. A more recent highlight is the cave church of Panagia Kavouradena, southeast of town and halfway downs the side of the steep rocks by the water. This "Chapel of the Madonna of the Crabs" is supposedly so named because a fisherman out looking for crabs found an icon here; an icon inside the church shows the Panagia framed within a crab's body.

The literal as well as the figurative center of the island is Platanos, perched on a ridge at the center of the island under the hill crowned by the Byzantine Kastro. Pl'atanos lives up to its name with the plane trees that shade its main square. There is also a fountain on the main square fed by the spring of the ancient Asklepion, or temple of healing. Leros is one of the few islands to have kept its traditional iehthi, a kind of cafe where men gather to play games and trade stories in the evenings.

Places to moor

Ormos Lakki - Also known as Porto Lago the area was occupied by the Italians as they had there naval base located here. There is a quay to moor on to but beware on the South section of the quay there is a steel rod. It is not recommended to tie in Lakki when there are Southwest and west winds as it becomes dangerous. Water and fuel are available as well as provisioning. There are a number of tavernas for eating out.

Ormos Partheni - This bay is located on the North side of Leros. It offers good shelter from the weather. You must anchor on the East side as the S and SW are military areas and anchoring is prohibited as well as photographs.

Ormos Plakouti - Located on NE coast of Leros it offers good shelter except from Northeast and easterly winds. Be careful of the visible rocks in the middle of the bay.

Xerocambo - A large bay located on the south side of Leros which offers good protection from the meltemi.

Ormos Alindas - This large bay is located on the east coast of Leros. There is a Venetian castle on the hill top above. When there is the meltemi the bay can get fairly rough. There is a small mole but due to the bottom is rock it makes for bad holding. Fuel and water are available and most provisioning can be found near by.

Panali - This bay offers good protection from the meltemi. You can anchor off the beach in 4-8 meters depth. This is a nice bay for a swim.