Astipalea - Dodecanese

The arid karstic island of Astypalea (Astypalaia or Astipalaia), the most westerly of the Dodecanese, shows clear affinities in both landscape and culture with the Cyclades. Two wide bays on the north-west and south-east sides divide the island into a higher western half and a lower eastern half, joined by the Ayios Andreas Isthmus, which is only 110 m wide. Stock farming (cheese), fruit- and vegetable-growing and fishing bring the inhabitants a modest degree of well-being.

Consisting of two mountain ranges joined by a natural isthmus . Astipalea appears on approach as if to be two islands. It in the past it was favored by the pirates because of the good shelter and position. During the middle ages the Venetian ruled Astipalea and in 1912 was the first, to be occupied by the Italians. Visit the castle which overlooks the to Maltezana and ornos Livadhi. The view is spectacular.

Astipalea (Hora) sits on the inner coast of the latter, its white cubist townscape rising up from its harbor, Pera Gialos, and anchored by a row of white windmills aligned with its Kastro. The castle belonged to Venice's Quirini family, who ruled here for 300 years and left their coat-of-arms over the door. Within its walls are two white churches: a Panagia and Agios Gedrgios.

The town has two other churches: the Megali Panagia complex, its courtyard done in black-and-white pebble mosaics, and, especially impressive, Panagia Portaitissa, built by the blind St. Anthimos between 1762 and 1771, held to be one of the most beautiful in the Dodecanese. A magnificent gilded iconostasis surrounds an icon which the saint brought with him, a copy of one in the monastery at Ivrion. "Feast of the Gods" is an epithet of Astipalea, coined for its flowers and fruit trees. For visitors, part of the feast is the good walking and the beaches that stud the shores.

Livadia Beach, nearer town, tends to be more crowded. From Livadia, walkers can head to the hills and the monastery of Flevariotissa, or seek out the attractive harbor and beach of Agios Andreas. There's good swimming at Steno, the name for the thin tongue of land connecting Astipdlea's two "islands." Further east is Analipsis, which the Italians called Maltezana, possibly because of the Maltese pirates who used to hang out here. Earlier still, Romans built baths with floor mosaics (which are still extant) depicting the signs of the zodiac.

The area around here and Schinontas is getting rapidly built up, not least because of its proximity to the new airport. More attractive still is Exo Vathi, a beautiful deep bay off the Gulf of Vai with a little fishing harbor. From here, it's not very far to the stalactite cave of Drakospilia. A bad dirt road leads through the mountains to the monastery of Panagia, past the Italian fortification of Kastellano. On Exo Nisi, there are lovely beaches on the eastern shore around Agios Konstandinos; Tzanaki is the place for nudists. At Vatses, on the southern coast, are more caves and gorgeous beaches; while the west coast is guarded by the ruins of the Kastro of Agios Ioannis.

Places to moor

Skala You can moor on the ferry quay but you might be asked to move for a short time when the ferry is due. You can also anchor in the bay. The bay is fairly sheltered except to SE winds which in this case anchor in Maltezana. Facilities include water and fuel. Provisioning can be obtained in the village.

Maltezana " An attractive bay with good shelter from the meltemi. Some care must be taken as there are reefs in the passage. Please consult your pilots book. There are a few tavern and cafes and some limited provisioning can be obtained.

Ormos Agrilithi - This is a deserted wild inlet. It provides good shelter from the Meltemi. Caution must be taken while entering there is a shallow patch (4-5 meters) lying approximately ½ a mile SE of the E entrance . This bay is ideal for a afternoon swim.

Onos Livadhi - The large bay of Livadhi is located on the south side of the Chora where you can anchor at the head of the beach. Fairly well protected from the meltemi.